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Just think how wonderful it would be if your stained glass windows simply stayed in pristine condition once they were installed or recently maintained. That would mean little heat or air conditioning loss through them, no vandalism, or element damage. Unfortunately, that is not going to happen and that is why you need to preserve them by properly installing protective glazing. PROPERLY is the key word. Improper installation can create more damage than protection. Proper installation includes sufficient dead air space, venting, choice of material, frame and millwork repair, type and setting of divider bars, as well as application of the correct type of sealant. Things to avoid Unfortunately, run-of-the-mill glazing installers do not understand the installation from the perspective of stained glass, which is our ultimate goal. And a glass house rarely performs a proper installation versus a stained glass studio. The pricing may be appealing, but remember, you get what you pay for. Sealant The sealant must be a non-acidic cure type or it will not react with the lead correctly and will quickly deteriorate it. Sealants must be able to adhere to a variety of surfaces, including metal, glass, plastic, and masonry. For years, companies were sealing plastics with straight silicone, not realizing that within a year, the seal would break, allowing water to penetrate the covering systems. This leakage that insued continued for many years creating severe damage to the windows and their frames. Non-vented installation Some in the industry today advocate not using any venting in their protective covering installations. However, the majority of studios recommend venting. Only newly constructed stained glass windows should use non-vented protective covering. If there were a thermo barrier frame and a seal protective unit of insulated glass, do not vent that installation. Otherwise, venting is best. Venting decreases heat build up and promotes airflow that helps dry and reduce any condensation. With quality vents and innovative installation techniques, the installation is both functional and attractive. There are few drawbacks to venting, however, heat build-up and condensation (leakage) can cause damage to un-vented windows. There are three different choices for venting: 1. Most popular - the glazing material has strategically placed holes to insert vent plugs. 2. Vent through the aluminum framing itself providing the client with a discreet installation. 3. Vented framing is another option and recently, some have introduced a couple versions into the market. One is effective, but large and not pleasant to look at, while the other is attractive, but not as effective. Until a studio comes up with a better design, it is best to choose the first or second method. As a rule of thumb, venting should be ¼ square of space per every one square foot of covering and they should always install at the bottom and top to create airflow from top to bottom. The venting portion of a protective glazing system is important so be sure to address all areas. Bending The main draw back to the installation of protective covering has always been its appeal. Visually speaking, many studio installations have not been attractive. To correct this lack of appeal, some in the industry have adopted the method of bending the divider bars to closely match the existing millwork. This provides the client with an improved look on the exterior of the building. I would recommend this process in all applicable applications. This is a skilled process and will help you determine a skilled studio that is competent in exterior glazing. Type of Covering There are a variety of protecive covering materials to use. The correct one is the one that fits the needs of your project. A quality studio can install a variety of materials and can explain the pros and cons of each product. No one product is best for every application.
By: John Phillips, Jr.
John Phillips Jr is author of this article on Protecting Stained Glass. Find more information about Save Energy Costs here.
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